香奈儿—流动的艺术展
2008.03.18

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左图： 建筑师Zaha Hadid。 右图：香奈儿Mobile Art展馆。 (All photos: Philip Tinari)

中国很多小城市人口动不动就超过六七百万，所以香港给人一种小镇的感觉可能也不足为奇。在全球经济的这个独特节点中心端坐的是一小群传奇资本家和他们的公子小姐。当地艺术圈最擅长的就是组织研讨会，讨论自身缺点。未来模糊的幻影——陷入停滞的西九龙文化区建筑规划，由赫尔佐格&德•穆隆担纲设计并引起广泛争议的艺术区建设计划（该计划旨在重新开发市中心的一片由警署和监狱组成的建筑群）——让人觉得这座城市充满了巨大的可能性。 但到目前为止，香港只能让你哀叹全球资本主义如何把世界变成了一个大商场，同时也是所有人抢购牛逼的衣服和包包的首选之地。

噢，说到购物！已故评论家Jonathan Napack曾经谈起这座城市怎样“跳过‘现代’阶段，从封建社会的贫困直接扎进后现代的消费主义里。”因此，卡尔•拉格菲尔德（Karl Lagerfeld）和扎哈•哈德（Zaha Hadid）把“流动的艺术”首站定在香港也许再合适不过。“流动的艺术”将到全球五座大都市巡回展出，扎哈女士亲自为展览设计了一座折叠和运输都非常方便的梦幻场馆，在一座城市腾空而起，再到另一座城市从天而降。


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左图：艺术家杨福东和常青画廊的Federica Beltrame。 右图： 卡尔·拉格菲尔德和他的随行人员。

香奈儿艺术展馆2月27日正式对公众开放，进场需要严格遵循十五分钟的间隔时间。若说这个大容器有什么作用，那就是为本地人和游客（在香港，两者之间从来没有清楚的界限）提供了大量文化资本供他们一较高下。制作成本自然高得吓人，更难能可贵的是门口还站着一排貌似欧亚混血儿的解说员，个个身穿香奈儿黑色针织斗篷和白色下装，引导观众入场的同时，还会像进献神物一样呈上一个MP3播放器，里面录有展览的解说词。这样安排的戏剧效果简直堪称无价。“您想选用哪种语言？”她们问每个观众。“我们有英语，法语和四种亚洲语言。” 展馆内，杨福东双屏静态录像上的一对冷美人似乎抓住并挖苦了理想中的审美观，Wim Delvoye天马行空的香奈儿压纹提包（据说是哈德设计展馆的灵感来源）紧随其后。后者的制作原料全部来自在北京农场长大的纹身猪。看着去年夏天威尼斯双年展的明星艺术家束芋（Tabaimo）的作品，只听MP3传出Jeanne Moreau沙哑的中音：“井底隐藏着秘密，就像提包里隐藏着秘密一样。” 并不是说我抱有多大希望，但听到这里，我终于忍不住让解说员把我的MP3换到了中文频道，就当满足我的人类学好奇心吧。我想看看这种无聊透顶的东西被翻译成香奈儿最新最大的市场所用的语言以后会成什么样子。


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左图：艺术家林明弘和评论家Beatrice Leanza。 右图： Ferrari Koolhaas Xiao 和United Nude的Rem D. Koolhaas。

星期二晚上，我坐在中国会十五楼的阳台，望着展馆所在的天星停车场。这是开幕前一晚，周围所有人都在问：“你觉得香奈儿展览怎么样？” 或者 “你明天去吗？” 艺术家和策展人开始陆续到场——林明弘，Loris Cecchini，杨福东，Fabrice Bousteau，吴山专，麻省MoCA的Joe Thompson——中间夹杂着各大家族的千金，起了美国名字的姓吴或姓周的女孩儿。同在阳台上的还有四位著名的漆艺大师，库哈斯家族在广州的三名成员（Charlie惊呼“伟大的城市，到处都是粉色大楼和非洲俱乐部。”），甚至包括八十年代重要评论家皮道坚（现在他更为人们熟知的身份是北京画廊家皮力的父亲）。在旁边的一个房间，俱乐部创始人邓永锵爵士正在招待哈德和《天桥骄子》（Project Runway）的评委Nina Garcia（她到香港是为了——当然是在连卡佛——给自己的新书造势，这本书的主旨是敦促女性不要那么迷恋名牌）。除了这两人以外，邓永锵长期以来的合作伙伴画商张颂仁还带进来一溜社会名流。九十年代初，张邓两人收藏了海量的中国当代艺术作品，并实际上制定了拍卖行遵循至今的策略规则。短时间内，似乎中国会的这些藏品一点儿都不愧对市场的高价。


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左图：香港名媛Veronica Chou和印度版《Vogue》的Bandana Tewari。 右图：艺术家Lee Bul和Loris Cecchini。

香港每周都有时尚派对（大家都说路易威登两天后的活动“好得多”），但时尚派对再加艺术包装就完全是另外一码事了。对香奈儿来说，艺术同样可以用于加强其关键的品牌特征：排他性。我们只消问问香港一家大艺术机构的总监就知道（她本人也是《Tatler》，《Prestige》等本地八卦杂志追踪的对象），她的邀请函上明明白白地写着丈夫不能陪同参加。她的丈夫是另一个顶级时装品牌的亚洲区总裁。“有点儿太矫情了。” 她在中国会的楼顶阳台上说。另一个朋友家里跟时尚界有千丝万缕的联系，香奈儿公关打电话跟她解释说，为了给她腾出位子，他们不得不挤掉一个专程从巴黎飞来参加活动的香奈儿主管。邀请函是拿到了，可把人搞得特别有负罪感。


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左图：Charlie Koolhaas。 右图：佳士得的Laura Choi和高古轩的Nick Simunovic。

我就是和这位朋友一起到的。面对蹲守的狗仔队，我还是毫无戒心地跟她和一个《Artforum》的同事走在一起，直到有人善意地提醒我俩能不能挪一挪，让狗仔队能“只拍她”。走进展馆后，我们不禁想起阿巴斯对香港的精辟总结：历史的错失（déjà disparu）——这个地方没有可见的过去，甚至包括Napack对这座城市的评价：“伪造的神化”。为什么这里如此空落？人们已经看完离开了吗？香奈儿是不是在品牌排他性的名义下走得太远，以致已经没有人愿意出席了？为了控制这种好奇，我们不停地在一楼派对和楼顶展馆之间爬上爬下，每爬一次就把喝空的酒杯倒满。过了一会儿，拉格菲尔德和哈德出现了，但现场注意到的人似乎只剩摄影师。Charlie和雷姆•库哈斯跑下楼去跟老朋友打招呼，我们互相飞吻，约好一周以后迪拜见。
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左图：导演叶锦添和一位朋友。 右图：Dee Poon和香奈儿的Denise Lo。

  Chanel Mobile Art Container By Zaha Hadid

, 12 March 2008

Creativity has always been at the heart of CHANEL since its very beginnings; it is the thread that unites Mademoiselle Chanel to Karl Lagerfeld, a visionary spirit known for his skill in anticipating the future of his times. A modern brand, constantly moving forward, cultivating the extraordinary and its innate sense of the moment, CHANEL is resolutely open to the world and turning towards the future. It is this propulsion that incites CHANEL to perpetually create surprise, from one continent to the next, and to so deeply impact on our collective imaginary consciousness. A traveling project, with entry free to all, Mobile Art will circulate for two years throughout Asia, the United States and Europe. In a futuristic pavilion created by the architect Zaha Hadid at the request of Karl Lagerfeld, some twenty international artists will exhibit work that was inspired by the elements that give the CHANEL bag its identity. Through this collaboration, resulting from their singular points of view - poetic, audacious and as yet unseen - the multiple facets of this mythical bag and its universe are revealed. Mobile Art is a revolutionary event, uniting one of the greatest architects of our time, some of our most innovative artists, and an icon of the fashion world: the quilted bag. Mobile Art is founded in the continuity of Gabrielle Chanel's strong relationship with the arts, and reaffirms once more our devotion to creativity and to the avant-garde.

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